Chains, Winter jewellery styling and Marie-Antoinette’s diamonds
The definitive Chain Edit, Elise Dray’s tattoo jewellery comeback, that necklace linked to Marie-Antoinette, Winter jewellery styling and Jo BC’s new show in New York. Hunker down, winter is coming.
The Chain Edit
The Triple Spiga chain bracelet by Lucie Gledhill
We spotted Lucie’s fabulous new Spiga chains at Goldsmiths Fair in September, and loved their sinewy brilliance. A highly accomplished chainmaker, Lucie’s practice is becoming ever more complex and this silver Spiga has links that twist in two different directions.
The large Electra necklace by Kinraden
Architect Sarah Mullertz’s form-lead jewellery for Kinraden is nothing short of minimalist magnificence. With a gold accent link, and layered pebble form, the Electra necklace is chain perfection.
The Redpath earrings by Joanne Thompson
Joanne’s open link chain is her signature and each tiny circle is painstakingly handmade. The Redpath earrings are a perfect clutch of silver and gold loops that tinkle and sway with the body.
The medium Strong Hearts Five Pave Diamond Love Link chain necklace by Foundrae
Foundrae’s soulful chains and charms have just found a new home in Liberty, and we love the Strong Hearts line for its decidedly non-twee take on the heart-link chain.
The Diamond Baguette Essential link ring by Shay
The LA-based mother-daughter design team behind Shay make elegant and eye-catching jewelry for women of all ages. Jumbo links are their calling card, made ever more refined with elegant baguette diamonds.
Elise Dray is back with The Drays tattoo jewellery
French jewellery designer Elise Dray, who broke through on the Paris independent scene in 2007, is back with a new brand of fine ‘tattoo jewellery’. In the intervening 17 years, Dray’s aesthetic has become more refined, but it maintains a rebel edge and all the romanticism of her Noughties fine-pavé jewellery, with sprawling natural motifs. Her fresh, distinctive style spawned so many copies that she eventually shuttered the brand in 2015.
The Drays has now opened a showroom in London’s Kensington. Her original hallmarks are all there – fine diamond pavé, intricate motifs and a certain sensuality to her sometimes complex articulated jewels – along with a little extra secret sauce, courtesy of Dr Woo, the cult Los Angeles tattoo artist and Dray’s “creative crush” who helped define the brand identity. The two creatives share a similarly dreamy aesthetic, which meets on the skin, traced in ink or diamonds.
Piece of the Month: The necklace that may have brought down Marie-Antoinette
Amongst the royal jewels and important stones at the Geneva sales a couple of weeks ago, one diamond necklace set tongues wagging, after it sold at Sotheby’s for almost £3.8 million. The triple-row necklace, described as “flowing like textiles” and “truly spectacular but comfortable to wear” by two jewellery friends lucky enough to be able to handle it, may have contained diamonds from the necklace that triggered the French Revolution and caused the downfall of Marie-Antoinette.
Sold to a private collector in Asia in the 1970s, this was the first time the piece had been seen in public for 50 year. Prior to that, it was owned by the british aristocracy, in the Anglesey family, when it was worn to the coronations of both King George VI and Queen Elizabeth II. Some experts believe its stones can be traced back to the Affair of the Diamond Necklace, but as jewellery historian Helen Molesworth explains, after 200 years on the black market, there’s no way of knowing where those diamonds have ended up. Give the hammer price, which reflects the perceived glamour and scandal of the French Queen, maybe that doesn’t matter. The emotional value jewels can carry is priceless.
Joy BC x Les Enluminures: Beyond Sight in New York
After the Lover’s Eye show in Japan in the Spring and Residual Energies in Miami this Autumn, Joy BC is back in New York with a new show with Medieval manuscript experts, Les Enluminures. The exhibition explores the materiality of art and jewellery both now and in the Middle Ages, when sight reigned in art and life. In an effort to examine the ‘secondary’ senses, of taste, hearing, touch and smell, Joy’s jewellery and works on paper are considered in dialogue with illuminated manuscripts and Medieval jewellery, leading the viewer to consider the physical experience of both.
Beyond Sight is at Les Enluminures New York 23 E 73rd St, Penthouse, New York, NY 1002, by appointment until January 14th.
5 ways to style jewellery in Winter
The thick sweaters, long sleeves and high necks that come with winter temperatures call for a few jewellery box tweaks. Five pointers for your Winter jewellery styling consideration.
Chunky knits need chunky chains, rather than fine chains that can strain, snag or get lost amongst texture and pattern. Go for bold chains and pendants that can hold their own on thick wool.
Cashmere is crying out for diamonds, the radiance of a tennis necklace or simple studs will contrast beautifully with the silky yarn.
Statement studs are more jumper-friendly than drop earrings that can be too fussy for a collar and catch on rollnecks - consider 80s-style button earrings or oversized studs.
Yes, you can stack necklaces over a high-neck sweater, as long as you pick a strong colour to contrast your chains. Or swap out the neck stack for a single statement necklace.
Rings on every finger will be easier to wear than an armful of bangles with long sleeves; go for bezel or gypsy-set stones rather than claws that can snag.
What’s on…
Paris, City of Pearls is the new exhibition at the Ecole des Arts Joailliers, exploring the forgotten history of the gemstone from the sea… New York City Jewelry Week has just closed, and if you weren’t in town you can catch up on the NYCJW virtual program on YouTube… And in London, the Auric showcase is coming up on December 11th and 12th, with four of our favourite jewellers; Emefa Cole, Shola Branson, Castro Smith, and Jet McQuiston. Head to 44A Chepstow Villas, W11 2QY 1pm - 6:30pm, for Christmas jewellery shopping.