Florals? For Spring? Groundbreaking
The V&A’s Cartier show; a jeweller’s eye view of TEFAF from Inesa Kovalova; inside Diane Vernet’s jewelry collection, our Paris Fashion Week and the retro floral jewellery we love for Spring.
The Spring Florals Edit
Anniversary Flower earrings, by Grainne Morton
The piece that sparked this edition of The Edit is by Edinburgh-based Grainne Morton, who works with antique objects and stones to create colorful, unique jewels.
Serpent Bohème cuff, by Boucheron
This brushed-gold cuff features an archive motif from the 70s, launched last month in Paris complete with a soundtrack of 70s French pop.
Former acupuncturist Sig Ward blends healing stones with uplifting colors. We love the astonishing shades of this copper turquoise flower pendant.
Large Eyelet Flower earrings by Aurelia Demark
Timeless gold and diamonds make for a spring statement that’s big enough to turn heads without taking over, from New York-based Aurelia Demark.
Wildflower Parsley ring, by Pragnell
Inspired by the wildflowers around this British heritage jeweller’s historic HQ in Stratford-upon-Avon, this OOAK piece is handcrafted in gold and enamel, with a pink diamond nestling in the centre.
Cartier comes to the V & A
The long-awaited Cartier exhibition opens at the V&A Museum in London this month, and with over 350 pieces of jewellery, watches and objects, it looks set to be a real treat. Step into the history of one of the most recognisable names in jewellery, to show how it has set the standard for design and craftsmanship and continues to influence the jewellery industry today.
Once the ‘jeweller of kings and the king of jewellers’, the house now dresses modern-day royalty as well as famous faces of music, film and fashion, and the retrospective will include Queen Elizabeth II’s Williamson Diamond brooch, an antique tiara worn by Rihanna to cover W Magazine and Grace Kelly’s engagement ring.
“This exhibition will explore how Louis, Pierre and Jacques Cartier, together with their father Alfred, adopted a strategy of original design, exceptional craftmanship and international expansion that transformed the Parisian family jeweller into a household name,” say the curators, Helen Molesworth and Rachel Garrahan. Look out for more, in our exclusive subscriber-only interview, coming up in April.
Cartier is at the V&A South Kensington, April 12th - November 16th.
A jeweller’s eye view of TEFAF
Our guest writer, Inesa Kovalova, shares her highlights from TEFAF in Maastricht, earlier this month.
This year, the jewelry section of TEFAF underwent a significant makeover and while Viren Bhagat was certainly missed, the fair welcomed an exciting array of new talents.
Inspired by sculpture and contemporary art, Forms masterfully combines colorful titanium and precious gemstones with exceptional craftsmanship and wearability. Their earrings are instantly recognizable for the feminine curves that hug the earlobes. Two jewels in particular exuded elegance and modernity: with tiny diamond details at the back, the aluminium Shell earrings offer the perfect balance of size, fit, and weight; while the emerald cabochon ring is accented with faceted stones set in matching green aluminium, and lined with white gold for comfort. Its overall wave shape rests beautifully on the finger—so perfect, so modern.
Aimée and Fleur van Kranendonk Duffels, the visionary sisters behind VKD Jewels, curated a stunning showcase that blends different eras and styles. They also highlight the work of female jewellers, including Spanish designer and TEFAF newcomer Luz Camino. Luz’s pieces are celebrated for their artistic approach, often inspired by nature and crafted using delicate enameling. Her use of bronze, gemstones, and enamel results in statement pieces full of life and character.
I loved the Eucalyptus Branch (which sold almost immediately, though thankfully it’s part of a limited edition of 100), as well as the White Fritillaria Earrings, featuring plique-à-jour enamel, diamonds, and set in silver, gold, and platinum.
One of the youngest artists presenting independently at the fair, Chinese jeweller Feng J offered a fresh, bold perspective. She has developed a unique style that could be described as painting with gemstones; arranging transparent, double rose-cut gems like brushstrokes to create subtle color gradients and a captivating play of light.
While her statement flower brooches made a strong impression, the Fountain ring particularly stood out for me. Featuring a moonstone surrounded by diamond-beaded curves, it evokes a splash of water, with the moonstone catching the light like a rainbow in motion.
Tenth-generation Indian jeweller Krishna Choudhary, who named his brand after his father Santi, presented the family collection alongside his own modern creations. The ultimate highlight was undoubtedly an open between-the-finger ring, showcasing two exceptional Golconda diamonds which appear as if they are weightlessly resting on the hand. Sadly, it was not to be photographed — but it was impossible to forget. I would choose a pair of earrings featuring Choudhary’s signature horizontal zigzag pattern. Crafted in matte gold, featured seven paisley-shaped rose-cut diamonds in each earring, my favourite pair struck a timeless balance of heritage and contemporary refinement, and reminded me of the windows of a fairy-tale palace.
I love everything that leaves the doors of this renowned Bavarian atelier. Their line-up was exceptional, but three pieces stood out to me, including an astonishing oval diamond ring, whose minimalist iron setting hugs a jaw-dropping oval diamond (enough said). The tanzanite aluminum earrings were testament to Hemmerle’s mastery of refined simplicity. Achieving such a flawless gradient of aluminum hues is an art in itself, elevating the design’s purity and depth. Finally, a pair of yellow-green aluminium, white gold and beryl earrings, with asymmetrical composition that appears to be sliding off the ear, was both strikingly modern and playfully unexpected.
Inesa Kovalova is a jeweller and the jewellery illustrator behind Draw me a Jewel. You can find her at By Inesa K, Inesa will be showing at PAD Paris next week
Inside Diane Venet’s Jewelry Collection
It’s a bumper season for brilliant new exhibitions, and the Norton Museum in West Palm Beach is preparing to open up the Diane Venet collection for public viewing. Set to a custom soundscape by Sheila Concari, 150 pieces of jewellery designed by 140 contemporary artists will go on show.
Wearable art by Pablo Picasso, Man Ray and Salvador Dali share space with jewels by Rachin Johnson, Niki de Saint Phalle and Yayoi Kusama alongside companion artworks, prompting a dialogue between art and jewellery within Venet’s collection, described as “second to none,” by Ghislain d’Humières, Kenneth C Griffin Director and CEO. According to Venet, the collection is “the story of my friendships in the art world over the past 40 years… an intimate museum that I can take everywhere with me.”
Artists’ Jewelry: from Cubism to Pop, the Diane Venet Collection opens April 12th – October 5th at the Norton Museum of Art, West Palm Beach, Florida.
Five highlights from Paris Fashion Week
Luminous 27’s gorgeous hardstone rings at NouvelleBox
The Insofu collection by Chopard, using emeralds cuts from a single, astonishing rough stone
BRANDNEW prize winner Dermot Fowler’s narrative collection based on the Pilgrim’s Progress at Goldrush
Sordo’s beautifully voluminous brass and silver
What’s on…
PAD Paris opens its doors on Wednesday 2nd April - 6th, we’re looking forward to stopping by at Second Petal gallery, 5 Octobre and Carpenters Workshop Gallery… also this week, the Petit Palais opens an exhibition of late 19th-mid-20th century jewellery illustration April 1st… Over in London, Buckingham Palace is hosting The Edwardians: Age of Elegance, including some spectacular jewels… and Tomfoolery London is gearing up for the annual LOVERing showcase in April, which this year will focus on genderless commitment rings… and over in Amsterdam, Bibi van der Velden’s first pop-up is open op Van Baerlestraat 70, April 1st - 25th.