Meet the Colorists
Sun's out, coloured gems are out for our favourite designers; why we're excited about GemGenève; Elie Top's 10th anniversary collection; a very special piece at Tomfoolery; the latest from Lucy Delius
The Colorists Edit
The lapis Colour & Contradiction necklace by Cora Sheibani
Bathed in art and design since childhood, it was no surprise that when Cora Sheibani found her jewellery design language, it included a bold and intuitive use of colour. Her 2015 Colour & Contradiction collection has aged spectacularly well, with smooth hardstone beads and lozenges, perfectly paired in instinctive combinations, teamed with faceted metal or contrasting stones.
The Neon Lights signet ring, by Polly Wales
For the ultimate in colored gems, Polly Wales’ cast-not-set technique sees precious gems embedded deep into gold during the casting process itself, rather than being set afterwards. In the Neon Lights signet ring, baguette-cut coloured gems are scattered across a classic signet, giving retro, reach-for-the-lasers vibes.
The Sari Lucknow triple ring set by Alice Cicolini
Drawing on a rich tapestry of influences and experiences, Alice Cicolini has spent 17 years honing her signature style ready for the opulent jewels we see today. The Sari Lucknow stack is inspired by patterns on a sari that Alice bought while she was living in India, recreated in enamel and 14kt gold, with a glorious central garnet.
The Disc brooch, by Kia Schwan
Kia Schwan fell in love with carved semi-precious stones while working at Van Cleef & Arpels and since setting up her own brand two years ago, has focused on vibrant combinations of carefully cut hard stone. Along with the customisable Abacus ring, the Disc brooch is a distillation of her clean forms and intuitive work with colour.
The Tang Fish Tarallo earrings by Bea Bongiasca
The Italian designer explores volume, taking the well-known savoury tarallo biscuits of her homeland as a notif and vehicle for her famous love of colour. The Animali collection takes a cue from tropical fish and animals, like the Tang fish, in bright blue, yellow and black.
What not to miss at GemGenève
The family-run gem and jewellery show is coming up in Geneva next week, here’s what we’ll be heading to see first.
Strong & Precious: The Ukrainian jewellery showcase is now a regular fixture at GemGenève, as they work to showcase Ukrainian jewellery creativity to the world. With work from Inesa Kovalova, Yyulia Komendat and gemstones from Volyn Gems coming up this year, we’re excited to see what’s new at what is always one of the first stands we visit.
Art Deco on show: To mark a century of Art Deco, this year’s exhibition will focus on one of the most popular design currents of the 20th century. With cross-discipline treasures including jewels by Chaumet and Piaget, fashion by Madeleine Vionnet, and even interior design and artefacts from cultural institutions liek the Boghossian Foundation, Art Deco: A Legacy of Timeless Elegance is set to be a major draw.
It’s all in our hands: Jewellery and Gemstones Association of Africa (JGAA) exhibition: “everyone knows that Africa is home to some extraordinary gemstones, but it deserves to be more widely known that’s it’s also seen a dynamic upturn in fine jewellery over the past few years,” says co-organiser Nadège Totah. Artists from Zambia, Kenya and the diaspora via Masterpeace Academy in the UK aim to redress that balance, alongside a fantastic exhibition which heralds the first JGAA Africa Jewellery Week next year.
The gemstones: what looks like miles and miles of gemstones can feel overwhelming, but GemGenève exhibitors encourage handling and close examination before any money changes hands. Whether you’re in the market for freshly mined or antique gems, don’t be afraid of asking questions and even a second opinion – it’s actively encouraged at this most approachable of gem shows.
Men’s jewellery: According to show organiser Ronny Totah, “men have changed the way they relate to jewellery” and this year’s show will feature a special focus on the increasingly popular brooches, rings, necklaces and other jewels for men.
GemGenève runs at Palexpo May 8th-11th.
Elie Top marks 10th anniversary with Dangerous Liaisons collection
On show at PAD earlier month after launching at Christie’s Paris in January, Elie Top’s 10th anniversary collection channels all the glamour and intrigue of the French classic, Les Liaisons Dangereuses. At PAD, the designer explained he was inspired by the flickering candlelight of the plush 18th century boudoirs which provide the backdrop to the epistolary novel’s games of seduction.
The French designer is known for his fantastical fine jewellery which draws from broad historical references. Over the past decade, he has created jewels inspired by themes as diverse as the legends of King Arthur, cosmology, and fantastical floral and fauna, always with a French touch, which he describes as creating a “new classicism”.
The Liaisons Dangereuses collection includes mirror-polished gold, covered in a latticework of silver, studded with diamonds like a velvet cushion. Rigid bangles, statement rings and fleur de lys earrings channel the light, with rock crystal and old-cut diamonds that were cut to sparkle in that very same 18th century candlelight.
Piece of the Month: Jilian Maddin’s Alden Owl engraved portrait ring
A hand-engraved gold owl set under lab-grown portrait cut sapphire made an exquisite combination at London’s Tomfoolery this week. On show for the annual Love Ring exhibition of contemporary commitment rings, the ring conjures up wide open skies, dusky woodlands and the soft thud of avian wings. Her highly embellished, narrative jewellery sits beautifully alongside the chunkier, gemstone-lead pieces, which fitted the unisex theme of the exibition perfectly.
Love Ring will be on at Tomfoolery London, 109 Fortis Green Road, Muswell Hill, London, N10 3HP, until June 28.
Lucy Delius introduces the Medusa collection
Previewed at NouvelleBox in Paris, where our eagle eyes homed in on the layers of gold and diamond pavé Double Diamond Medusa chain, the Medusa collection from Lucy Delius is now out in the world.
The jewels are inspired by the infamous Greek myth, executed with fitting drama in the ropes of S-link chain which not only reference the snakes of the original story, but also Victorian woven hair mourning bracelets. In bracelets and necklaces, the chains are finished with hidden box clasps, concealed with Victorian-set diamond pavé, alongside the Athena’s Mirror earrings and signet ring, with diamond-set shanks and a satin gold top, ready for engraving.
The pieces are available in a heavier chain, the Serpent, or the slimmer Snakelet version, but we loved the weight and heft of the bolder version, as Delius’s signature Victorian references provide an ever-elegant finishing touch.