Melee in Paris, the Inlay Edit, and Akansha Sethi on the new high jewellery
The Honesty Box on Jewels, August 2024: straightforward jewellery insight and curation.
Hopefully you’re still spinning summer out to the gentle sound of waves, but more likely than not, you’re ramping up for back-to-school and work season. Either way, we hope you’ve had a restful and relaxing few weeks. We’re looking forward to welcoming our friends at Melee the Show to Paris in a few weeks, for the showcase’s second season in the City of Lights; Lauren and Rebecca shared their favourite spots around the city along with the jewels they’ll be wearing when they visit. Our Piece of the Month, from playful Chinese designer A.Win Siu rounds out brat summer with glorious green peridot, and we’ve curated some beautiful jewels using inlay techniques which are often overlooked, but form the cornerstone of exquisite jewellery across cultures. We also spoke to Akansha Sethi, a London-based designer who has been quietly carving out a unique niche for herself in high jewellery design, and also to Harriet Scott, Head of Fair at The Goldsmiths’ Company, about what to look out for at the upcoming public selling exhibition. We’ll see you next month, for more.
The Inlay Edit
The Aligned 8 earrings, by Melanie Georgacopoulos
These distinctive stud earrings by Melanie Georgacopoulos combine gentle volume with her trademark mastery with the gems of the deep. Graphic stripes create a decidedly Eighties feel, meticulously picked out in magnificent shades of peacock mother of pearl, finished with tiny peacock seed pearls.
The inlay curb chain bangle by Jacquie Aiche
A spectacular new piece from the LA-based designer, this green opal inlay curb chain bracelet dazzles, as white diamonds catch the light and accentuate the aqua depths of one of Nature’s most mysterious stones.
The Twist Reflection ear jackets by Kavant & Sharart
The ultimate in modern transformable jewellery, Kavant & Sharart’s Deco-inspired ear jackets can be worn three different ways. Gentle inlaid green chrysoprase pairs beautifully with brushed gold, finished with icy diamonds.
The Temple Tile bangle by Orly Marcel
Many of Miami-based Orly Eisbart’s designs come to her during her daily yoga and meditation practice, and her exquisite inlay jewellery is deeply inspired by her time spent living in India where she studied yoga. Today, she designs ethical jewellery characterised by balance and proportion, to produce a sense of calm and serenity.
The Inlay Impetus Puzzle Pendant by Retrouvaí
The Puzzle Pendant combines highly polished peaty green agate with 14kt gold and a dose of characteristic Retrouvaí style audacity. Finished with a brilliant-cut diamond, the puzzle pieces represents belonging to something bigger than oneself.
The Melee the Show team’s perfect day in Paris… and the jewels to wear along the way
With Melee the Show’s second Paris jewellery showcase coming up in a few weeks, founders Lauren Wolf and Rebecca Overmann shared the restaurants, shops and bars they will be visiting – and the jewels they’ll be wearing while they’re there.
“Paris is where Eastern markets and European buyers congregate to discover the latest talents,” say Lauren and Rebecca, the two jewellers who founded the show in the US in 2017. “We’ve noticed growing interest from European jewellers who want to showcase their work, but may not travel to New York.” And while they’re in town, the Melee team is planning on indulging their love of style, art, and great food with an itinerary that will appeal to anyone else who loves this city as much as they do.
Breakfast: Sain Boulangerie—their pastries are to die for, and they’re all about fresh, high-quality ingredients.
The jewels to wear: Alex Fitz. Elegantly comfortable for everyday wear, with subtle flames of color that really make it stand out. Just the right touch of interest for a morning stroll around Paris.
Shopping: For a dose of Parisian chic, we love to browse the three Whitebird stores for jewelry and drop in on our NY Melee the Show exhibitors Céline Daoust and 5 Octobre, to say hello. Then, to Philippe Model Maison for the most amazing interiors and furniture, and our favourite Couteaux Ceccaldi for the most beautiful knives.
The jewels to wear: When we’re out shopping, we love wearing our own designs to share with our New York exhibitors. As jewelry designers who only show in Paris, it’s a great opportunity for us to connect with our New York counterparts in their stores to share our one-of-a-kind pieces, and of course, geek out over stones, facets, settings, and colors together.
Lunch: On to lunch at Les Fous de l'Île on Île Saint-Louis, a charming bistro that’s all about classic French dishes with a modern twist.
The jewels to wear: Nestled on a small island in the Seine, this restaurant calls for jewelry inspired by nature. We’d wear pieces by our Paris exhibitor, Branch, which beautifully mirrors the stages of nature, from pristine to decay. The contrasts are stunning; the matte crevices with polished peaks and smooth surfaces interrupted by jagged edges make the perfect match for this serene, yet dynamic setting.
Dinner: Luisa Maria near L’Odeon, for cozy, authentic Italian cuisine in a warm atmosphere. We’d order one of their amazing pizzas!
The jewels to wear: Mariko Tsuchiyama’s jewelry is exactly what we’d wear to dinner in Paris; it’s the epitome of chic, refined elegance. Her contemporary, hand-sculpted designs redefine fine pearls with a gender-neutral, modern sensibility. It’s the kind of standout jewelry that perfectly embodies the sophisticated Parisian dining experience.
Nightcap / Hotel: To end the night, we’d relax at The Hoxton Paris’ Planche wine bar —stylish, comfortable, and right in the heart of everything.
The jewels to wear: For us, Universal Deco’s shield ring is the perfect piece to wear at The Hoxton. It’s that ideal mix of old-world Art Deco charm with the effortless cool of Paris. It’s bold yet refined, making it the perfect accessory in such a stylish setting.
Melee the Show will be at the Mona Bismarck Hotel, 34 Av. de New York, 75116 Paris, France, September 27th - 29th, 2024. Press and buyers can register here for the show.
Melee will be hosting the launch of The Art of Wax by Elsa Tierney, with a private view and drinks reception overlooking the Eiffel Tower 5pm-7pm, September 26th.
Akansha Sethi on the new high jewellery
Akansha Sethi draws on her Indian heritage to produce jewels worked in a rich palette of colours, that speak of the art and architecture of her vibrant homeland. With carved stones and unusual – yet always harmonious – colour combinations as her signature, she recently produced her second high jewellery collection, a sell-out success and a sign of a more thoughtful approach to the most haute of jewellery artforms.
Tell me briefly about your inspirations and impetus for this high jewellery collection.
I again found myself being drawn to opulent palace interiors for colour and pattern inspiration. As a child, I was especially fascinated by the unique colour combinations and detailing throughout Indian palaces and old architecture, which I initially used as a source of inspiration for my paintings, and now the jewellery collections.
As an emerging jeweller, why did you want to move into this space?
Through the high jewellery collections I have been able to showcase my love for statement and unique jewellery pieces, where I can work on the “exaggerated” and bold designs, which I truly enjoy. The process of working on a high jewellery piece is why I love being a jewellery designer that focuses on the beauty of coloured gemstones. Each piece has its own story, and is worked on in stages, as I learn and experiment. That could mean combining a unique set of gemstones together, like the aqua chalcy, tanzanite and amethyst statement earcuffs.
“I have come to realise that my customer base is more open to purchasing a more unique statement jewellery piece”
This is your second collection, how has your experience of high jewellery been so far in comparison to fine jewellery?
I find designing a high jewellery collection incredibly enjoyable and therapeutic as it allows me to explore my passion for design, whereas the fine and demi-fine jewellery collections are more challenging as I am stripping my design back to fit a more commercial model that’s simpler for daily wear.
Bespoke is also a large part of my business model and I have come to realise that my customer base is more open to purchasing a more unique statement jewellery piece. Naturally, producing a high jewellery piece requires more time and intricacy in each design, especially when it has an element of transformability, which is the most challenging – yet exciting – part of the process.
To what extent do you believe the high jewellery consumer is changing?
There is a higher demand, as people are looking for a piece which is one-of-a-kind and stands out. As all of my high jewellery pieces pay tribute to the beauty of coloured gemstones and intricate carvings, I have also seen demand for more unique combinations. Rather than choosing the standard high jewellery gemstones (diamonds, emeralds, rubies and sapphires) people are moving towards lesser-known coloured stones, which has allowed me to also learn and experiment with a new variety of gems.
The collection was a sell-out success. Any future plans to share?
I plan to focus more on statement pieces and gradual release them as I come across more unique and beautiful coloured gemstones, and maybe also branch out from wearable jewellery in the coming year.
New talent and a very special art installation: what to see at Goldsmiths’ Fair
September means new pencils, shiny shoes and the Goldsmiths’ Fair. With a line-up of 136 exhibitors over two weeks in late September, there’s a lot to see at Goldsmiths’ Hall this year. We spoke to Head of Fair, Harriet Scott, to plan our visit.
This year will be the 42nd edition of the Fair, which was started by The Goldsmiths’ Company as a unique public selling event to showcase the work of UK-based makers and designers who had successfully developed their own distinctive technique and style. Today, it has become a highly regarded showcase, with new exhibitors each year — look out for Alice Cicolini and Balint Samad — which attracts international collectors: “the Fair has supported, nurtured and launched the careers of hundred of jewellers and silversmiths over the past five decades,” says Harriet, “providing a unique and highly respected platform from which to sell their collections.”
Tell me about the artist selection this year.
“This year, we will welcome ten Emerging Business Bursary candidates. Launched earlier this year, the scheme is an evolution of the Graduate Bursary Scheme we’ve been running since 2000, designed to support a broader range of makers who are in the first six years of running their independent business, providing access to this opportunity for more early-career makers.
It was set-up in recognition of the fact that jewellers and metalsmiths follow many different routes into the trade, from apprenticeships and vocational courses, to art school education and self-teaching. The launch of the Emerging Business Bursary for Goldsmiths’ Fair 2024 marks the 25th year of support for early-career makers.”
What are you most looking forward to at this year’s Goldsmiths’ Fair?
“I am very excited by an intervention that will be stages around the central staircase at Goldsmiths’ Hall. The marble of the central staircase will be interrupted, distorted and augmented by the intervention of celebrated metalsmiths, and Goldsmiths’ Company Freemen, Adi Toch and David Clarke, who have collaborated to create Lost & Found, a site-specific installation of their work that responds to the history of the Company and the Hall.
They to make us reconsider not only the work we see in front of us, but how its context at the Hall can suggest new interpretations and meanings. Toch and Clarke are working at the top of their game; we are excited to have them with us and hope that you find their intervention thought-provoking.”
Do you have any advice for collectors and visitors?
“The best thing a visitor can do at the Fair is talk to the exhibitors and get hands-on with the work. If Covid taught us anything, it was how important it is to be able to handle pieces that we are considering purchasing — you can’t compete with the experience of real life, feeling the weight of a piece, it’s texture, how it reacts to light and so on. The Fair is also the perfect place to forge relationships with the artists, that will enhance your understanding of the work and enjoyment!”
Goldsmiths’ Fair is held at Goldsmiths’ Hall, Foster Lane, London EC2V 6BN, September 24th - October 6th, 2024. Tickets are available online.
Piece of the Month: A.Win Siu x Fuli Gemstones
To round out peridot birthstone month (and brat girl summer), we chose a recent jewel from A.Win Siu, created in collaboration with Fuli Gemstones as part of their emerging designer programme.
Known for her playful, colourful jewels, the Chinese designer A.Win Siu’s graphic jewels owe much to her background as a children’s illustrator. Using a range of gemstones and precious metals with innovative, high-tech finishes, her delectable creations have seen her carve a niche for herself as an art jeweller both at home in China and internationally, with a regular presence at showcases including GemGenève.
For Fuli, she created a new version of the Something Sweet brooch she first developed during Covid, nestling a deep green period inside a titanium and enamel wrapper, like a boiled sweet just about to burst from its paper. “Different colours correspond to different emotions,” she explains. “In an impatient and depressing world, what humanity needs, is ‘hope’, and ‘apple-flavoured’ peridot has the power of vigor in line with my conception.